Tin Ceilings by Standard Tinsmith Inc, makers of Tin Ceiling, Cornice, Backsplashes, Moldings, Walls, Medallions & Decorative Metalwork and Metal Ceiling Designs.

LAY-IN INSTRUCTIONS NAIL-UP INSTRUCTIONS BACKSPLASH INSTRUCTIONS

LAY-IN PANEL INSTRUCTIONS

All patterns shown are 23-7/8" x 23-7/8", super-easy lay-in panels, specifically designed to fit into any suspended grid system. When installing panels in an existing 2' x 4' grid systems, simply add 2' cross 'T's as needed. For perimeter conditions where panels are not full size, tin-snips can be used to trim the panels to fit.

When installing cornice with a suspended ceiling, position the cornice so it spans the ceiling and the wall equally (see "as cornice" picture below), and nail it to the wall and allow it to rest against the suspended ceiling. Continue working around the perimeter of the room by overlapping each consecutive cornice ½ inch (repeated pattern will overlap in an interlocking manner). When mitering for corners, use a miter box, a fine toothed hacksaw and gentle unidirectional strokes. Use the same point in the cornice' pattern to begin the cuts of both adjacent pieces to ensure a symmetrical union.

As an option, the cornice can be nailed up vertical, entirely on the wall, just below the ceiling, as a "border", rather than a cornice.

NAIL-UP INSTRUCTIONS

Before you begin the installation, erect scaffolding to ensure steady footing while working. Have metal shears (tin snips) ready for trimming. The sheets have small dimples along the edges called beads. You line up the sheets by overlapping these beads (like a ball and socket). Nail the sheets on the bead every 6". The exception to this is when you are joining sheets; use a flat head nail to one side of the bead to allow the overlapping sheet to be nailed on the bead. Nail down the center length of the sheet every 12" before nailing the edges.

1	If installing mill finished panels, clean them with denatured alcohol and wipe them dry before installation. The pre-finished panels all have a PVC film that should be removed before or during installation. Heavy leather gloves should be worn when handling and installing metal. The edges are very sharp.
2	To begin: Nail furring strips to the ceiling around the perimeter of the room 1-1/2" from the walls, using resin-coated nails. Locate the center of the ceiling and bisect it by snapping a chalk line at right angles to the ceiling beams. This insures that the ceiling panels will be nailed into the beams. Working out from this line, snap chalk lines at 24" intervals. Place the edge of a furring strip along each line and nail it to the ceiling. Repeat the process, nailing new furring strips at 12" intervals. Level the ceiling, raising low areas by inserting shims between the furring strips and the ceiling or install 3/8" plywood.
3	Install Plywood: As an alternative, you can install 3/8" plywood or comparable material across the entire ceiling. Tin ceiling panels are held in place with special cone head finish nails, which have to be driven into wood; drywall or plaster will not do.
4	Find the ceiling's center: Tin panels are installed starting from the center and working out. To find center, stretch a chalk line between opposite corners of the ceiling and snap a line on the plywood or furring strips. Do the same with the other corners. The lines cross at the center of the ceiling. Now snap a line through this center point parallel with the room's longest wall. This is the baseline for the length of the room. Finish by snapping another line through the center point that is 90 degrees to the first baseline.
5	Plan the layout: The ideal layout should be "balanced" so that the panels that meet one wall are the same size as the panels touching the opposite wall. To find where the center piece will land, work out how many panels will fit along the baselines. Be sure to account for the overlap, typically 3/8". Then adjust the center panel's position to create the desirable balance along the ceiling perimeter.
6	Orient the edges: Because the panels overlap, most will have exposed edges. Installing the panels so the edges face away from a room's main doorway will make them less noticeable.
7	Close the seams: Tighten up any open seams by tapping against the overlapping edge with a hammer and soft pine block. Caulk can also be used to fill any openings (use clear caulk if ceiling is to remain mill finish), but be sure to wipe away any excess before drying.
8	If the panels are not pre-finished, the ceiling is now ready to be painted, using any latex or oil based paint. This can be accomplished by either rolling, brushing or spraying.

Furring Strip Method

Over Plywood

Trimming

Cornice with Filler

Cornice Only

BACKSPLASH INSTRUCTIONS

When using our products for a backsplash, nailing is the recommended method for installation. The first step should be to line the wall where the panels will be placed with 3/8” or ½” plywood. Templates for outlets, windows, etc. should be cut prior to beginning actual installation.

Due to the high-traffic area that backsplashes are installed, the panels will be susceptible to impact. To avoid unwanted blemishes, each panel should be lined with a latex based tile adhesive in a thin even coat. While still moist and pliable, place the panel into position, gently pressing the panel against the plywood, allowing the compound to ooze into all the crevices of the embossed panel. Nail the panel in place. The next panel will overlap the prior panel by 3/8”. To prevent moisture from getting behind the panels and into walls, a light bead of clear caulk or silicone should be laid down over the area to be overlapped. Place the next panel in to position and follow the same procedure as the first. Once this is done, using a clean, non-abrasive cloth, wipe away the excess caulk or compound before it hardens.

Continue with the remaining panels in this same manner until the entire area is completed. Once all of the panels are installed, lay a light bead of caulk around the entire perimeter of the backsplash, being sure to wipe away any excess.

Because backsplashes are in a damp environment, it is recommended that a clear-coated, copper, white or finished panel be used. This is to avoid water marks that can stain “raw” material.